Basic Photo Studio Equipment

Author: David Neargardner

Are you interested in setting up your own home or office photography studio? If so, you've probably found out that it can be pretty tricky to decide which photo studio equipment you really need. The primary components of a good photo studio are the background, lighting, the camera, plus props and film if you won't be shooting digitally. Here's a look at some of the basics.

A good background is extremely important as basic photo studio equipment, since it can be a good complement to your subject, or a real problem. Plain backgrounds, such as seamless paper, are usually preferred. Stick with white as a basic choice, though blue, gray and black are also good. Muslin can also work. When you're going to roll the background paper to the floor, make sure there's a smooth curve that will eliminate harsh horizontals. Consider putting paper or tape on the bottom of human models shoes to keep the paper clean. Muslin backgrounds are made of light cotton, can be draped, and have more texture than paper.

Lighting is next most important. You'll need a minimum of two lights - one for direct lighting and a softer light to prevent harshness. A third light is extremely common. This can be used to edge light the subject, preventing it from blending into the background. Most people start with flood lights, also called hot lights (and they are quite hot!) They cost less and work well with just about any camera. The heat can be uncomfortable, however, and basic fire safety needs to be followed. The bulbs are incandescent, so they need to be replaced fairly often.

Another popular type of lighting used as basic photo studio equipment is the strobe. These flash when you take a picture. Digital cameras are usually connected directly to your studio strobes to signal them to work. If this is not possible, choose strobes equipped with a light sensor that will set them off when the camera flashes. Make sure your camera does not use a pre-flash if you're going to be using this method, however. It can set your strobes off too early.

A simple chair and some other props are appropriate if you'll be using mostly human models, but aren't necessary if you'll be photographing mostly objects. Choose the camera that's best suited to your subjects. If you'll mostly need to take photos of small objects, a camera with good macro settings should be part of your basic photo studio equipment. Most professionals use SLR cameras instead of automatics, since this allows for manual adjustment. However, you should work with the tools you feel most comfortable using.

These are just the basics when it comes to photo studio equipment. There are lots of other options out there, and as you take pictures, you'll find out which ones are best for you. The best thing you can do is to get started!

When shopping for photo studio equipment there are lighting kits available that are all in one's to help get you started easily. These lighting kits will often come in the form of continuous lighting which means the scene is always lit in cool to the touch fluorescent light kits with all the lights that you need including a muslin backdrop. There are also stroble flash kits available as well if you're going to be using an SLR camera that can allow you to sync your lens with the flash. The original "hot lights" or halogen lighting kits are continuous photo lighting kits like fluorescent is but produce a lot of heat and are not nearly as economical to operate as the cool running fluorescent kits are. For photographers just starting out, continuous lighting either in the forms of fluorescent or halogen lights are the easiest type of lighting to work with, simply turn them on and you are free to begin shooting.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Neargardner

Choose Good Light

Author: WebCatalyst

Although your natural inclination may be to focus your attention on your subject and compose carefully to get the shots you want, you can greatly improve your photography if you put an equal amount of time into evaluating and controlling light. What often
distinguishes really good photographs from all the rest is how light is used to capture the photograph. Depending on the kinds of subjects you shoot, you may need to work exclusively with natural light, or you may be able to use a combination of natural and
artificial light.

After you have decided what you want to shoot and you have a vision for the kind of shots you want, carefully consider the characteristics of the available light if you are shooting with natural light. Do you have backlighting or front lighting, or does the light come in from the side? Does the light come in from a low angle, or is the sun high in the sky? Is the light soft and diffused, or is it bright and intense? Does the light have a nice, warm golden glow or maybe an unwanted color cast?

When you do not have good light, consider ways in which you may improve it, or find another time to try again. Can you use one or more flashes? Are you shooting close-ups when a macro ring light may be the most effective kind of supplemental light? Would one or more handheld light reflectors be useful? The more you take advantage of quality light, the better your photos will be.

About the Author:

Photography tips, digital photography tips, articles on digital cameras, digital photography, photography tutorial and help on photography techniques at photographytipsntricks.com.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Choose Good Light

Island Silhouette

I took this photo while I was coming back from Pa-Ngan Island, Southern of Thailand. I was on the ferry and then saw the island. Since the light inside the room on the ferry is much more different from outside, so I think about silhouette photo. I have frame which are door and windows. I think that the other thing that make this photo more attractive is the light reflect from the water. This is what I think when I took this photo. Please your comment on this photo, so I can improve myself. :-)

The Great Photographer: Art Wolfe

Many aspiring photographers envy the life of Art Wolfe. He travels around the world, has many adventures, and takes extraordinary pictures. Not everyone can be Art Wolfe, but it is possible for many photographers to understand his journalistic style of photography.


The Art Wolfe Life

Art Wolfe’s “Travels to the Edge,” a 13-episode TV series that showcases the people, culture, and local fauna of Peru, Ethiopia, India, Alaska, Japan, and other countries, is just one of the latest string of accomplishments of the internationally-acclaimed photographer. His career is most likely the dream of thousands of photographers. But who is Art Wolfe? Born on September 13, 1951 in Seattle, Art Wolfe grew up as an outdoor enthusiast. One of his most cherished memories was an encounter with a moose that looked directly at him as his canoe drifted on the Bowron Lakes in Canada. He enrolled at the University of Washington to pursue a Bachelor’s Degree in Fine Arts and Arts Education. His chosen field of specialization and digital photography was just an elective. Soon, however, he incorporated his knowledge in the arts into photography.

Unable to gain the cooperation of traditional publishers, Art Wolfe established his own publishing company in 2000, the Wildlands Press (WP) and produced his first book, the “Living Wild.” His stunning and unforgettable images of animals catapulted Art Wolfe to fame. He garnered recognition, such as the Outstanding Nature Photographer of the Year by the North American Nature Photography Association, the Alfred Eisenstaedt Magazine Photography Award, and the first Rachel Carson Award. Then he entered the world of television with the same enthusiasm he had in exploring the world. Some of his shows were the “Techniques of the Masters,” “American Photo’s Safari,” and the latest, “Travels to the Edge.”


Art Wolfe Photography Style

The famous Art Wolfe photos can be classified into these categories: people, places, and wildlife. Of course, the Art Wolfe pictures are not strictly delineated by these categories. He liked to combine people with places, people with wildlife, and wildlife and habitat. He also liked to shoot images of the world's children. The variety of images that Art Wolfe takes means that his niche is not just nature photography. Since he integrates culture and advocacies, Art Wolfe’s style is better called journalistic photography. But what are his photography techniques?


Art Wolfe Photography Techniques

Art Wolfe and his team of nature photographers conductworkshops and online seminars for those who are interested in learning various photography techniques. But if you are quite adept already at digital photography, what you needed is just a little nudge towards the right direction. In his “Travels to the Edge,” Art Wolfe places much emphasis on inspiration – not the inspiration that photographers needed in taking pictures but the inspiration that the images will evoke in the audience. To create an inspiring image, Art Wolfe revealed in his interview in Microsoft’s “Explorers of Light” that his pictures tend to be stylistic, giving the impression that these were taken in a studio. According to him, he likes to see clean lines in his images, especially when shooting animals. When shooting bodies of water in low light, his preference is low exposure. When shooting people and animals in action, he combines pre-focusing, continuous shooting, and a close distance.

Article by Mayflor Markusic
Credit: www.brighthub.com

Link to Art Wolfe's website

Tip for Nature Photographer: Using a tripod

When it comes to photographic equipment, my feeling is the tripod, your camera support, should always be used by the nature photographer when doing nature photography. Nature subjects in natural world photography provide nature photographers plenty of time for creative visions. In this nature photography article, I am not speaking of wildlife photographers who are in a wide variety of photo situations. The stability provided by this one piece of equipment, tripod, makes a big difference in technique giving the nature photographer sharp nature photos. You find better photos returning from the lab clear, sharper and crisp.

As I began making high quality images and nature stock photography to provide stock images to print in commercial advertising, photo editors said, we need new images - clear, colorful imagery. Buyers view image quality with high power loupes. I found it's highly competitive providing photography in advertising and publications. There is no room for second best as advertising photographer's are the higher quality stock photographers available to the business world. If there wasn't money in creation of a professional photography portfolio of stock images and commercial licensing stock photography, competition would not be online or this scenic California independent photographer. I make a variety of nature stock images for my Southern California stock photo library stock photo agency.

Passion for sharper images?

Better start holding the camera steady. Do you need to photograph in natural outdoor locations in lower available light? Hold the camera steady for those longer shutter speeds and those razor sharp nature images. Want more color in your nature images? Your selection of a slower film speed and using filters is positive. You need a steady camera platform. Using longer focal length lenses handheld? Using slower lens speed f5.6 forcing slower shutter speed? These and many other things contribute to lower contrast, dull, colorless un-sharp images.

Depth of field.

When you are trying to achieve maximum depth of field in photographs, you close down the aperture to the higher numbers like f16.0, f22.0. This allows less light, which causes you to use a slower shutter speed to make correct exposure. Granted, better photography nature scenic images with nice depth of field are made with shorter focal length lenses like 20-35mm or ultra wide lenses, but not all. It is up to the individual photographer and their abilities to find what creative visions will communicate nature's sights. I have used longer lenses 200mm for outdoor stock images of nature in California. High depth was achieved because I knew how to get a high quality image of that nature scene down on film by ALWAYS using my trusty tripod to get the best nature images.

Nature Photography 101: USE a Tripod for Sharp Images.

The trade between slowing down and working at a natural pace with the added weight and minor inconvenience is worth it. Your nature images and nature photography will improve so much with this one piece of stabilizing equipment, you'll become a major pain showing all those nice nature images on your online nature photographer sites!

What do I look for in the purchase?

The first thing to consider is the functionality of the tripod. Does the tripod have interchangeable heads? Can you change the tripod head rather than buying a different tripod?

Most tripods in the photographic market today are sold in two pieces: Legs and Head. You want legs with a wide range of flexibility for using the tripod in many different shooting situations. Getting down low along the ground to photograph nature macro images of flowers or flower and garden photography close-up. Wide angle nature landscape photography close to the ground? For nature landscape photography, how high do you need the camera? Landscape photography requires stability. Do the legs adjust independently? They better or you'll miss some great nature photography. And creative nature photography with two legs in the stream and one on a rock? Good strong adjustment knobs are a must. Camera stability plays an important role in making a sharp photographic print. Scenic images of beautiful natural scenery which display fine nature detail sell in the stock photography market. "nature detail" is NO camera movement.

The Head.

I personally use the Pan and Tilt style head on my tripods. I use the BOGEN - Model #3047. This is the type providing adjustment for forward and back, another side to side, and one for up and down. It also has a Quick Release plate and levels to fine tune the horizon level. I use the Bogen model for my 35mm Nikon camera's and my 4x5 large format photography. There is the Ball Type head, which is a ball that rotates in a socket and has the ability to rotate 360 degrees with the turn of a single lever. The ball type heads cost more money as some are quite fancy designs and many are worth the extra money. I think the ball heads are better suited for larger glass the longer telephoto lenses.

The Legs.

Here I want solid and flexible. I again use the BOGEN - Model #3021. This is a good set of legs, tripod for landscape photography and very popular with landscape photographers being priced right for purchasing. Flexibility, solid build, are good features. The thing I can see they need to work on is reasonable weight. Bogen 3021 legs have been the standard for many professional photographer's and continue to be in the field working more than any other tripod legs, they work well and I would try a sample. I do seasonal spring and fall color nature photography close-up backgrounds for the nature stock photo coverage. This (my) Bogen 3021 gets me right down inside the smallest wildflowers as well as sweeping grand landscapes.

One thing I will not do is buy a tripod based on the "other guy has this kind so it must be the way." That's just plain stupid. Know what it is you need, your personal criteria, then go find something that fits this need. Look around, find affordable prices and purchase based on your own criteria. Sure you can take recommendations from people, decide based on your own personal needs not the seller and selling or marketing departments with major league advertising.

For nature photography, list features you personally need in a tripod. List how you use this piece of equipment. List the type (small or large format) your style, subjects in pictures, nature photography portfolio or photographic collection of nature photos you enjoy creating. With this list in hand come online, search out different brands of tripods by equipment manufactures and match your pricing needs to what the web sites are offering. Do this for as many companies as you can find to cover "the bases," and you will find a great source. Keep checking your list matching items you have placed on it. You will find the best product for your photographic needs. Remember, if weight is a consideration have it on that list, at the top.

I want you to know I use the model and brand I use because it works for me. If a stick was what I was using for a tripod to get clear, sharp images I would say so. I chose what I use based on fact. When I find better I will list the model online. This Southern California photographer is completely satisfied with the choice I made for my tripods and camera equipment, all of it. You should be too!

Credit: http://www.californiapictures.com

MaeJaem, ChiangMai

The place in the photo is in ChiangMai (Northern of Thailand). It's very difficult to go there even for 4WD. Anyway, the scenery is beautiful and also the weather there as well. There are plenty of rice fields on the hill. I took this photo in the late afternoon. I waited for the light to spot only the small area. I also capture many of the edge of mountains. These things will make photo looks it have depth. Wish I have a chance to go there again. :-)

The Railway Tracks

I took this photo at HuaLumPoang station (Train station, Bangkok). I saw that the pattern of the railway track is quite interesting. The idea is to present the pattern of the railway track in the vertical-symmetry. I took many photos since it’s very difficult to do it symmetry. Anyway, it’s not too difficult since we have plenty of time to try (be careful the train can be coming everytime :-) ).

Open for your opinion about this photo :-)

Tips for creating perfect portraits

Tips for creating perfect portraits.

Portrait Photography Exposure tips:

1. Don’t ever use your strobe in automatic mode because it will give you the wrong results. Learn to use and read light correctly.

2. To calculate the correct exposure for your portraits you should know how to use an exposure meter. There are two ways to use a light meter: the first is to point the meter at the subject - this is called a reflected-light reading. I prefer to take an incident-light reading - instead of pointing the meter at your subject, you stand beside the subject and point the meter at the camera. The light that falls on your subject will also fall on your meter.

3. Most new cameras today have a reflected-light meter build into them, but they are not always accurate. Using your cameras meter along with a grey card can be another way of calculating accurate exposures. You place the grey card beside the subject and take the reading from the grey card.

Portrait Photography Composition tips: should at all times be kept simple.

4. Like all types of photography, portrait images when kept simple are most effective. There are several ways to create good composition for portraits - first off is to have a natural colour background so that the subject will stand out.

5. Focus on the eyes. The eyes are the most import part of any portrait. They should be the focal point of any head shot and be 100 percent sharp.

6. Placement of the subject is very important. Get your subject to sit at an angle to the camera so that their shoulders are at 45 degrees to the lens. Then ask them to rotate their head until they are looking directly at the lens.

7. The hands of your subject can be a distraction - to avoid this in full length body shots ask the subject to fold them. You can always ask the subject to hold an object but be careful that the object will not take attention away from the subject.

8. You can change the appearance of your subject by changing their position or the position of the camera. If your subject has a double chin get the subject to lean forward and raise the camera height. If the subject has a bald head lower the height of the camera.


Light: will transform your images - learn to use it correctly.

9. Soft light works best for portrait photography. This can be achieved by bouncing the light off an umbrella or reflector. It will also reduce harsh shadows.

10. Never place your studio lights directly in front of the subject. They should always be placed at a 45 degree angle. This will help to prevent red eye occurring.

11. When shooting portraits outdoors you should choose an overcast day. This will lessen the harsh shadows in an image and will also prevent the subject from squinting. If the sun is very bright find a spot in the shade.


Photography equipment:

12. Tripod and a cable release: A tripod is important for one main reason, keeping your images sharp. Every time you put your hand on the shutter you risk movement - a cable release will allow you to take sharp images without touching the camera.

13. Your camera should have the ability to change lenses. You do not need to have a portrait camera - some of the best portrait photographers in the world use a digital SLR. Your lens should have a focal length of between 85 mm and 135mm - within this range you should be able to fill the frame from a reasonable distance and will also help reduce perspective distortion.

14. Light Meter: All modern day cameras have light meters built into them, but if you are serious about portrait photography it’s advisable to have a hand-held light meter. These are small and light-weight, and when used correctly are extremely accurate.

Portrait photography done correctly can be extremely profitable - remember to keep it simple.

Credit: http://www.goldprints.com/portraits.html

Welcome to my Blog!!!

Hi Everyone!!!

Welcome to my blog. In this blog, I'll share with you about the photography tips & techniques.Actually, I am not the expert. So some articles I will bring from the experts' articles.

About myself

My name is Pete (or SidewinderZ). I like taking photograph especially landscape. Actually, I like 'Life' photos but I'm not good in this style (I'm practicing). My current equipments are as below.

Canon EOS 400D with Sigma 17-70 and 70-300.

You can see my gallery from this link.